A Costume of Progressive Values?
By Zora Filali | Culture | January 26, 2026
Cover Illustration: A man sitting at a table reading a book, 2024. Priscilla du Preez / Unsplash
Soft news reporter Zora Filali reflects on Amsterdam’s simultaneous flirtation with and rejection of the “performative male”, and how this phenomenon ties into the very heart of the city’s culture.
You have definitely seen him before: His jeans are baggy, and his tote bag carries feminist literature. You may have even witnessed him cycling while sipping his ceremonial-grade matcha latte. What people online are calling the “performative male” is synonymous with a man who crafts his aesthetic around the ideals and interests of liberal women. Values such as feminism and emotional literacy have increasingly become aesthetic markers. Progressiveness and soft masculinity are in, and they became a fashion statement this past summer. Men shaping their style around this aesthetic can easily be spotted all around Amsterdam.
The phenomenon became so vivid and pervasive that it even inspired a “performative male contest” held in September 2025 at Museumplein. This contest was less a celebration than a satirical critique of the archetype. While Amsterdam prides itself on tolerance and openness, these values can become controversial when they start to feel performative. The contest revealed how quickly visibility can turn into ridicule once a style or aesthetic becomes too recognizably curated and trendy.
It featured male contestants flaunting exaggeratedly “performative” outfits and accessories. Among the standout moments were contestants strutting down the runway with two or more books in hand. While some crocheted mid-runway, others proudly showcased vinyl collections featuring exclusively female artists like Lana Del Rey and Kate Bush.
It is no coincidence that the contest took place in Amsterdam: The event shows that Amsterdammers are pushing back against this particular aesthetic, though the city itself also enables the archetype. So what exactly is it about this city that allows the “performative male” to both thrive and, inevitably, be parodied?
The city’s aesthetic scenery and emphasis on alternative lifestyle practices not only afford but actively cultivate the “performative male” archetype. Amsterdam, with its pragmatic approach to sex work and drug policies, is shaped by a history of progressive social politics. This liberal backdrop is the ideal stage for the “performative male” to flourish. Widely considered the center of creativity, with its many humanities-oriented institutions and emphasis on creative professions, Gen-Zers would not refrain from describing the city as “artsy.”
The beautiful canals, historic buildings and countless bikes are visually pleasing, contributing to an overall charming atmosphere where the “performative male” archetype blends right in, as if he is yet another element of Amsterdam’s urban aesthetic. It is almost like the “performative male” is a product of his environment, as he assembles his fashion taste to the city’s flair and overall ambience.
Amsterdam can sometimes make you feel that aesthetic consciousness and personal style are highly important when living here. Petra Nguyen, a student of the University of Amsterdam, says:
“There is definitely a dominant style here in Amsterdam, and it can at times make me feel pressured to fit in and adapt. Even so, my own personal style preference and comfort are still more important to me. I don’t want to be inauthentic.”
Her input speaks to an inherent tension within Amsterdam’s aesthetic landscape: the conflict between conformity and authenticity. This same tension fuels debates about “performative males” – are they genuine or not? And is this aesthetic aspiring, or is it so pretentious that it becomes worth parodizing?
Petra continues:
“The performative male, I think, is more about aesthetics and fashion style than actual politics. I feel like they present themselves in a certain way to ‘bag’ women. But then again, there are instances when this aesthetic is not ‘performative’ but actually authentic. For example, drinking matcha is an actual cultural practice in Japan and not just performance. Performance is considered something negative, and instantly marking everything that fits the ‘performative male’ archetype as ‘performative’ can be harmful for boys who still want to explore and express their identity.”
Petra’s scepticism reveals a broader tension within Amsterdam’s cultural landscape:
In a city where politics and values are often communicated through fashion choices and lifestyle, authenticity is persistently under scrutiny. Hence, the “performative male” becomes a trend or figure onto whom doubts are projected. He is enabled by Amsterdam’s progressive atmosphere but his authenticity is questioned because of its prevalence.
In such cities as Amsterdam, progressiveness can function as aesthetic currency and become a fashionable accessory. The “performative male” archetype originates from an environment where values are visible in one’s fashion, displayed out in the open and even evaluated in public spaces. While some men adopt liberal aesthetics for social capital, others are genuinely experimenting with style which certainly encourages identity exploration. Not all men who happen to fit the aesthetic may be insincere.
The trend also lets us uncover a lot about our desire to police and monitor our own and others’ authenticity. We constantly question who uses an aesthetic as a facade or costume for recognition and for whom it is a genuine extension of their identity. Therefore, the real challenge, then, lies in questioning why authenticity has become something we feel entitled to police.
Zora Filali is a university student in Amsterdam. The views expressed here are not necessarily those of The Amsterdammer.
