What’s more, effects of the fifteen-year civil war between 1975 and 1990 are still felt today; many warlords of the conflict have served as the country’s political leaders ever since. The governing elite’s clientelism, mismanagement, corruption and impunity are recognized as being at the root of the failing Lebanese state. The armed militant group Hezbollah has more power than the national army. Since the war’s end, power outages are common and still unresolved.
In fact, walking around leaves you wondering whether leftover damage is from the blast, the civil war, or the general economic crisis. It would be anyone’s guess.
The Lebanese population has suffered several severe crises in recent years. Faith in state institutions is in decay, and hopes of improvement are dampened by weak prospects for political reform. Compounding conflicts contribute to lasting psychological trauma, disillusionment and brain drain.
I’m visiting a friend from Ghazze, a village in the Beqaa valley to the East of Beirut. She tells me she used to enjoy shopping in the Beirut Souks, but the economic crisis and the blast have left the shutters closed and souk alleys empty as shopkeepers cannot afford to open.
My friend spends 11 days excitedly showing 12 international friends her homeland. Economic, political and social conflicts take a backseat to the unique natural and historical beauty of a multicultural and multi-religious society. Indulging in the natural allure of Lebanon’s geographical diversity, its wealth of historical sites, Beirut’s vibrant nightlife, and mezze after mezze after mezze makes it easy to see that the Lebanese spirit is still kicking.