Autumn/Winter Season 2020 Commentary
By LINH NGUYEN | February 29, 2020
Illustration by Rania Djojosugito
Moschino disappoints and Richard Quinn shows how to do it right.
With the onset of winter, designers around the world toil to change our perceptions of what fashion is all about. From London to Milan to New York City, fashion houses everywhere are trying to shatter ceilings with their Autumn/Winter Season 2020 collections. With that said, Jeremy Scott for Moschino and Richard Quinn’s collection are worth commenting on – one more than the other.
To account for the tone of this article: Moschino’s collection, praised by British Vogue as “fantasy-fuelled”, questionably attempts to bring back Marie Antoinette-style fashion under the slogan “Let them eat cake”. The quote, infamously spoken by Marie Antoinette herself, inspires much of what is being presented on the runway. Cake, flowers, and short guardainfantes (extremely wide skirt upheld by an underlying frame) dominated the collection. The colours (ivory white, pink, yellow and blue), hair styling, and dress frame are commonly associated with the fashion of 18th century French nobility. Unfortunately, with no conflict, climax or perceptive resolution, the story ends right there.
No modern twists or interpretations, nor any personal artistic spin to fire the viewer’s imagination. Instead, dresses are shaped like tiered cakes because, well, “Let them eat cake”. Even supermodel Gigi Hadid can not distract from the unflattering silhouette and bland design of her flower dress. Is this really Haute Couture? Assuming that creativity is the grounding component of artistry, I will dare to say that a floral and tiered-cake dress are in no way gobsmackingly inventive. With that, I passionately disagree with British Vogue’s comment on the “fantasy-fuelled” nature of the show. It doesn’t serve as an inspiration for fashion enthusiasts like myself, but rather feels like a half-hearted history lesson I should have skipped.
On a brighter note, Richard Quinn’s show perfectly showcased the beauty of creativity and imagination which can bring fashion to life. From the choice of the intricate materials to the decision of covering the model’s faces with full head masks- this collection inspires awe. The detailed thought that went into the making of these patterns, and the creative cuts scream avant-garde; precisely what Moschino lacked in his collection for this season.
Therefore, – Dear British Vogue – I pledge that Richard Quinn’s show is what a “fantasy-fuelled” collection should look like, not Jeremy Scott’s attempt at bringing back 18th cenutry France onto a 2020 runway. To wrap up, here is what A/W S20 has taught me: just because the collection is from a renowned and influential fashion house, it does not mean that the artistry of fashion is done justice. The A/W SS20 story brought Moschino down to a hot mess, while Richard Quinn rose to the throne.